New Delhi

Humayun's Tomb at opening - the inspiration for the Taj Mahal

Delhi is a city of cities: Old Delhi and New Delhi are not the same place and never quite reconcile. The Mughal city of Red Fort and Jama Masjid is ancient and dense. Lutyens' Delhi is broad and ceremonial. Between them is everything else.

The food in Chandni Chowk moves faster than anywhere I have eaten. Parathe Wali Gali for breakfast. The spice market for the sensory overload. Humayun's Tomb for the quiet after.