Rome

Pantheon - arrive when it opens, before the tour groups

Rome is the city that reminds you that civilisation is older than you can comfortably hold in your mind. The Pantheon has been standing for two thousand years. The Colosseum was a weekend entertainment venue. The Forum was rush hour.

I walked from the Aventine Hill to Trastevere, from Testaccio to the Campo de' Fiori. The food is as good as the history is deep, which is saying something extraordinary about both.