Tokyo

Sensoji Temple koi pond before the crowds arrive

We landed late, checked into Nippori on the Yamanote line, and went straight for Unagi that same night. Four of us: Sharang, Vibin, Udaya, and me. First night in Japan and we were already eating properly. The green line runs a loop around the city and you learn to navigate Tokyo through it.

Sensoji surprised me with a koi pond so clear you could count every fish from ten feet away. We walked Shibuya crossing multiple times, just because you have to. We stood in a long queue for Ichiran Ramen in Shibuya and it was worth it. Shinjuku Golden Gai at night is a street of bars so small you sit with strangers by design and end up having a better evening than you planned. HATCOFFE made coffee art almost too beautiful to drink. Vibin and I had what might be the best burger of the trip at Ghost Burger. In Kanda, London Sports had my first ski jacket and ski pants. I had not planned to buy them. I bought them.

Uniqlo in Japan is a different proposition. Two cashmere sweaters and a merino wool, all cheaper than anywhere I have bought them before. We had a buffet dinner at Ginza Happo that went too well for two members of the group. Sharang and Udaya had a rough night and missed an entire next day of exploring. They rejoined in the evening, looking improved but philosophical about the experience. Before leaving Tokyo I bought two solar-powered watches: a Seiko and a G-Shock. The G-Shock reads radio signals and sets itself to the correct time and timezone wherever you are. It remains one of my favourite things I own. Japan overall was a lot of ramen, a lot of subway rides, a lot of Google Translate, and more steps per day than any city I have visited before or since.